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If you’ve ever wanted to dress up a simple pattern by making it in luxurious velvet, you’re about to learn 5 simple tricks for working with this fabric.
If you skip these tips, you could end up wasting some expensive fabric, or getting those weird flat, shiny spots. The good news is, you can prevent that with a little know-how and the right choices.
So if you want an easy way to make a fancy top or dress for the holidays, make it in velvet.
Trick 1: Choose the Right Velvet
The first trick is choosing the right velvet to go with your project. But to do that, first you have to know about the different types of velvet. So let’s do a quick crash course.
The first thing you need to know is that velvet is a pile fabric. What that means is that there are all these little fibers that stick straight up from the fabric, which is what creates that fuzzy texture.
You can imagine it like grass growing in a field. The blades of grass that grow up from the ground are the pile. This is going to be important later, when we talk about tricks for cutting.
But first, let’s get into the different types of velvet so you know how to choose the right one.
There are several different types—silk, rayon, cotton, stretch, and synthetics. The trick is to match the weight and body of the velvet to your pattern.
If you’re making something with a lot of structure, like a jacket, you’ll want a stiffer velvet. These are often the cotton velvets, or even a velveteen. Velveteen tends to be a bit stiff and it has a shorter pile without as much sheen.
If you’re making something flowy, you might go with a silk or rayon. You can also find silk-rayon blends. I once had a pair of pajama pants in an indigo blue silk-rayon velvet, and they were so soft and luxurious, I wish I still had them.
That actually brings me to a good point. You might think of velvet as a special occasion fabric, but it’s pretty wonderful for fancy loungewear too. Try velvet for loose-fitting pants or a gorgeous robe.
The other thing you might want to consider is stretch velvet. So stretch velvet is a knit fabric, but it has that nice pile to give it the sheen and texture you want. You can use it in place of most knit fabrics.
Here are a few examples:
The Billie jumpsuit is a fun option because it takes something really comfortable and cozy and makes it dressy and a little glamorous. You could even make this for a holiday party, and still be really comfortable all night. We made this one in an indigo blue velvet, which is really pretty and festive.
I think stretch velvet would be really pretty for the Farah top, which is a classic ballet wrap. It’s lovely to layer over dresses, so I think velvet would add a lot of texture.
The Lito T-shirt dress is really simple, so I think it would show off the texture of a stretch velvet really well. It would make a perfect simple little black dress that’s also really comfy for everyday wear.
And here’s a pro tip: stretch velvet is actually an awesome beginner choice. If you’re new to sewing velvet, start here. It’s less tricky to sew and requires fewer closures, so you can test your skills without much hassle!
Trick #2: Pick the Right Pattern
Velvet looks fancy, but you really want to choose something with simple lines when you sew with velvet.
Remember that velvet is a pile fabric? That means it’s sensitive to heavy pressing and intricate seams. When you press it with your iron, it can leave shiny marks and indentations—in the shape of your iron—which you don’t want.
Pile fabrics also make darts and shaped seams stand out more. This is unvoidable in some cases, but when you are first starting to work with velvet, look for patterns with simple shapes—think flowy, semi-fitted pieces. Avoid designs that need intense shaping or too many darts. You really want the fabric to sing on its own.
One simple pattern I think would look great in velvet is the Hansie top, and this pattern is actually totally free. A super simple top is a really good choice for velvet. It doesn’t have a lot of seams, so the fabric itself can really stand out and do its thing. You don’t have to worry about closures either. It’s also very quick and easy to sew, which is great because velvet does require a little bit of extra prep—keep reading to learn why.
With Hansie, I’d also go with a silk or rayon velvet, but you could also do a cotton velvet. It’s one of those patterns that really works in a lot of fabrics, so it’s kind of a go-to for showing off something extra special.
Oh, and by the way, if you pick a pattern that does have a zipper, skip invisible zippers, which tend to catch on velvet. Instead, go for a hand-picked zipper for a smoother, higher-end finish.
Trick #3: Cut One Layer, One Direction
It’s always a good idea to cut velvet single layer, rather than on the fold. Pile fabrics are slippery, so double layers won’t necessarily match up—and you don’t want a crooked garment.
Velvet also has something called a “nap.” You might have seen some sewing patterns that advise you to buy extra fabric to account for nap. So why do you need extra yardage, and what does that mean?
Napped fabric looks different from one direction than from another direction. You might notice that it looks slightly lighter or more saturated when you turn it one way than when you turn it the other way.
Because of that, you have to make sure to cut all your pieces going the same direction. So the top of the pattern piece should always point the same way when you’re cutting. Otherwise, you’ll get weird color changes throughout your garment.
That means that sometimes you need a little extra fabric. Because you can’t turn the pieces upside down, you might not be able to tetris them together quite as efficiently.
Here’s another pro-tip for cutting: Lay your fabric on tissue paper to help it stay steady as you cut, and use a rotary cutter for cleaner edges.
By the way, you’re going to notice a lot of fuzzies when you cut velvet, just because of the pile. I like to keep a handheld vacuum or a lint roller nearby, because it really can make a mess.
Trick #4: Stabilize with silk
You want to avoid fusible interfacing on your velvet projects, because your iron can crush the pile. I’ll share how to deal with that when pressing seams in the next trick, but first here’s a trick for adding a little stability.
Instead of fusible interfacing, use silk organza as a sew-in interfacing. I absolutely love organza as an interfacing because it’s stiff but still pliable, and it’s very very thin so it won’t add bulk. It’s perfect for adding a little more stability to waistbands and collars.
This gives you structure without the risk of flattening or damaging that soft texture with an iron.
Trick #5: Avoid Direct Ironing
Now let’s talk about pressing, one of the hardest parts of sewing with velvet.
I’ll tell you a story. When I was in my early twenties, I had this little dark blue silk velvet mini dress that I absolutely loved.
One night, I went out dancing with a bunch of friends and wore it. I was dancing and sweating in it all night, and when I got home, there was a huge shiny flat spot all around my butt on the back of the dress.
That’s because all the heat and moisture combined with the pressure of sitting to flatten the pile when I sat down. So my butt basically left a big imprint in the fabric, which was NOT cute.
If you think about it, it’s the exact same thing as an iron: heat, moisture, and pressure. It’s the enemy of velvet.
So what do you do? You need to press your seams, but you don’t want shiny, flat spots.
Instead of pressing directly, steam your seams from the wrong side. Place a towel or a scrap of velvet pile-side-up as a barrier.
What this does is catch the fibers of the pile so they don’t get pushed down into a hard surface as you steam. If you sew with velvet a lot, you can even get something called a needle board that’s made just for this. But if not, a scrap of velvet or towel works well. This keeps the pile safe while still giving you a clean finish.
Bonus Tip: Avoid Creeping
And here’s a bonus tip: avoid creeping! Velvet has this sneaky tendency to shift as you sew because the pile makes it slippery. The best way to keep it in place? Hand-baste your seams before machine sewing. It sounds like extra work, but it’ll save you time and frustration in the long run.
That’s another reason to choose a pattern with minimal seams. You can spend a little extra time making those seams perfect instead of sewing something more complicated.
Winter is a great time to play around with fancy fabrics like velvet, with all the celebrations going on. But there are lots of other gorgeous fabrics you might consider for those special occasions. Here are some other fabric guides you might find helpful:
- The Ultimate Guide to Sewing With Silk
- A Guide to Sewing With Merino Wool
- How to Sew With Rayon: Expert Tips and Inspiring Projects
- The 7 Vest Dresses (and Patterns) for Special Occasions
Do you have any velvet tips to share? Comment and let me know!
