Sign In
You’re about to learn all about how to sew with rib knits—one of my absolute favorite fabrics.
Rib knits are quick to sew, look professional, and are super comfy to wear.
In the video below, I’ll show you the different types, how to buy them, tips for cutting and sewing, plus some favorite examples and projects to inspire you.
Watch the video and keep reading for some detailed notes.
What Are Rib Knits?
Rib knits are characterized by their vertical, ribbed texture. These ribs are created by alternating knit and purl stitches. By the way—if you’re a knitter, you’re going to understand a lot about rib knits.
The ribs are what make rib knits extra stretchy with great recovery. If you aren’t familiar with recovery, it’s a knit fabric’s ability to snap back into shape after you stretch it out.
Since they have gret stretch and recovery, rib knits are super popular for cuffs, collars, and hem bands. After you pull on your garment, the rib knit will spring back to its original shape instead of becoming distorted and stretched out.
I love to use rib knit to sew an entire garment. These knits are so soft, stretchy, and comfortable to wear.
Types of Rib Knit
There are several types of rib knits you might come across when shopping. The variation in rib width plays a significant role in how the fabric looks and performs.
Rib knits come in different rib formations, like 1x1, 2x2, and even 3x3. For example, a 1x1 rib knit alternates one knit stitch with one purl stitch, creating visible ridges and offering the most stretch. This makes it ideal for projects like cuffs and form-fitting garments.
You can easily see the ribs on this chunky, bright red example here. The little V shape is the knit stitch. The deep groove is the purl stitch.
You’ll also find 2x2 or 3x3 rib knits, where two or three knit stitches alternate with two or three purl stitches. The wider ribs create a slightly different look and feel, though all rib knits retain that famous stretchiness.
Variegated rib knits mix rib widths, giving the fabric a textured, striped effect.
You can also find horizontal rib knits, which are not created with alternating knit and purl stitches. Without that knit pattern, you don’t get the amazing stretch and recovery.
What is Ribbing?
Ribbing is a type of rib knit fabric, but it’s specifically used to add elasticity and structure to certain areas of a garment.
It’s often found at the edges of your garment, like cuffs, neckbands, and waistbands.
Take a look at the Lex sweatshirt. It has ribbing on the cuffs, neckband, hemband, and even on the pocket edges. This keeps these areas from bagging or stretching out too much.
When you shop for ribbing, don’t be surprised if it comes in a tube. You can even find pre-made cuffs for your sweatshirts and jackets.
Rib Knit Fiber Contents
Rib knits can be made from so many different fibers, which influence their feel, drape, and durability.
Common fiber options include:
-
Cotton Rib Knit: Cotton is soft, breathable, and perfect for everyday wear like t-shirts and loungewear. Keep in mind, 100% cotton rib knits may lose their shape over time, so if you want to prevent that, look for added spandex or elastane. -
Polyester Blends: Adding polyester improves durability and wrinkle resistance, helping the fabric retain its shape. You’ll often find this in activewear. -
Wool Rib Knit: Warm and cozy, wool rib knits are great for cold-weather garments like sweaters and scarves, offering natural moisture-wicking properties. -
Rayon Rib Knit: Known for its softness and drape, rayon rib knits are ideal for garments requiring fluidity, such as dresses or flowy tops. They also make comfy loungewear. -
Bamboo Rib Knit: Incredibly soft with moisture-wicking properties, bamboo rib knits are perfect for activewear or baby clothing.
Before You Sew
Before you dive into sewing with rib knit, I have a couple of tips.
First, make sure you’re using the right tools.
You’ll want a ballpoint needle that’s the appropriate weight for the specific fabric you are using. Ballpoint needles slip through the knit stitches rather than piercing holes in them.
A walking foot can also help prevent the fabric from stretching too much while sewing.
You also want some clear elastic on hand to help stabilize drapey fabrics. It’s especially good for inserting into shoulder seams.
Also, don’t forget to pre-wash your fabric. Unless they have a high amount of polyester, rib knits can shrink.
How to Cut Rib Knit Fabrics
When it comes to cutting rib knits, precision is key. Since they’re so stretchy, they can be a little tricky to cut.
Use a rotary cutter for clean, straight edges.
It’s easier to cut rib knits with a rotary cutter and plenty of pattern weights. The weights keep everything in place and the rotarty cutter prevents any unwanted stretching or distortion.
If possible, cut your fabric pieces flat rather than on the fold. When you cut on the fold, it can be hard to tell if the ribs are slightly askew.
Sewing Rib Knits
Sewing rib knits is easy if you follow a few key tips.
First, use a zigzag or stretch stitch to allow the seams to stretch with the fabric. If you have a serger, this is the perfect opportunity to use it, as it provides a professional finish and prevents the seams from unraveling.
By the way, check out our serger course if you’re new to sergers or you want to get to know everything your machine can do. Here’s a link: Ready, Set, Serge: Serger Basics.
It's always a good idea to sew a test swatch before starting your project. This will allow you to adjust your stitch length to avoid bunching or warping.
Use clear elastic to stabilize high-stress seams, like shoulder or waist seams. If your fabric is heavy, it can start to sag at these places. Sew the elastic to the wrong side within your seam allowance, and you’ll get extra stability without sacrificing stretch.
Use Wonder Tape for hems. When sewing hems on stretchy fabrics, I recommend using Wonder Tape instead of pins. It holds the fabric in place and prevents shifting as you sew.
Finally, take your time, especially on long seams like side seams or sleeves. When you sew slowly, your fabric is less likely to stretch or snag as you sew.
If you run into issues, check your needle—make sure it’s a fresh ballpoint needle, and consider using a walking foot for better fabric control.
Sewing Patterns for Rib Knit Fabrics
Now that you’re equipped with the knowledge to sew rib knits, here are some project ideas to inspire you.
A fitted turtleneck is perfect for cooler weather and it looks so stylish in rib knit.
I’ve made the Lenny dress a few times, even cropping it into a shirt. You can see my project diary here, where I share even more tips for working with rib knits.
The Edie pattern also looks great in rib knits. You can wear it on its own or layer it under pinafores.
Since form-fitting garments look great in rib knit, I also recommend a fitted tee.
I’ve made the Goldie in rib knit, and it’s a total wardrobe staple. I have a project video about Goldie here.
Another project idea is loungewear. Nearly any loungewear is great for rib knits, so you could make pants like the Nash flared leggings. We made a sample in rib knit, and it looks really fun.
A pair of joggers looks cute made entirely in rib knit, or just use ribbing for the cuffs and waistband. These are the Mel joggers.
Rib knits work beautifully when combined with other fabrics. Keep some ribbing on hand for binding or adding bands to your T-shirts and other projects.
You can use rib knits for these details if you want, but you can often find matching fabric and ribbing.
Sewing with rib knits can be incredibly rewarding once you understand how to handle the fabric. It’s versatile, comfortable, and perfect for garments that require stretch.
Have you ever sewn with rib knits? Comment and share your projects!
