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Want to learn how to make your own sweater or cardigan in just a few hours?
Now that it’s fall, sweaters form a big part of my wardrobe and I definitely plan to sew a few. But even if you’re pretty familiar with sewing knits, sweater knits can pose a few problems, like unraveling, stretching out, or just being hard to shop for online.
Well, after sewing countless sweaters for myself over the last 25+ years, I’m sharing everything you need to know to buy and sew sweater knits.
By the end of the video, you’ll feel totally confident in making yourself a sweater this season.
What is Sweater Knit Fabric?
You may have encountered the term "sweater knit" while shopping for fabric, but what does it mean?
Sweater knits typically refer to fabrics that mimic the look and texture of hand-knitted fabrics. These fabrics often have a lot of texture or fuzziness, with thicker yarns and open knit patterns that resemble classic, hand-knitted sweaters.
But, unlike hand-knitting a sweater—which can take months—sewing one can be an afternoon project.
Sweater knits are created just like other knit fabrics, using a machine that creates loops of yarn that interlock, creating that signature stretch, flexibility, and softness. That’s why knits feel so cozy and comfy, so you just want to snuggle up in them.
But you may have noticed when you’re out shopping that fabrics called “sweater knit” can look drastically different from each other. Why is that?
Types of Sweater Knits and Their Characteristics
Two major things affect the look and feel of a sweater knit. First, is the type of yarn that’s used, and second is the stitch pattern the yarn is knit with.
There are a lot of options for each of those two things. So let’s talk through them so you have a better idea about what to look for when you’re shopping.
Sweater knits can be made from a mix of fibers like wool, cotton, polyester, and sometimes blends that include elastane or spandex for extra stretch.
The type of yarn affects things like the fabric’s weight, warmth, and texture. For example, wool and acrylic yarns are popular because they’re warm and durable. But some people might not like the texture of acrylic.
Common fibers include:
- Wool: Warm and durable, ideal for cozy, thick sweaters.
- Acrylic: Often softer than wool, but may not be as breathable.
- Cotton and Rayon Blends: Lighter and more breathable, though not as warm.
Next is the stitch pattern used to knit the fabric. This affects how the fabric drapes, stretches, and behaves.
- Jersey sweater knits are smooth on one side and textured on the other. They’re great for lightweight layering.
- Rib knits are super stretchy with a raised texture, offering a snug fit. You can learn all about rib knits in this article: A Guide to Rib Knit Fabrics: How to Sew Stretchy, Stylish Garments.
- Fishermen’s rib is thicker with a deep, squishy texture, perfect for chunky sweaters and cardigans.
- Cable knits have interwoven patterns that add extra texture and thickness, ideal for classic, chunky sweaters.
- Jacquard Knits are multi-colored, stable, and less stretchy, often with intricate designs. They make great showstopper garments.
- Lace knits are open and airy, creating a lacy, decorative fabric.
Tips for Shopping for Sweater Knits Online
Shopping for sweater knits online can be tricky, but here are a few tips to make it easier.
Think about the styling. If the pattern is more fitted and structured, look for a thicker, tighter knit with minimal stretch. For more drape and a slimmer fit, you want the opposite—thinner knits with more stretch.
Check for fiber content and stretch. Review the fiber content and stretch percentage to understand how the fabric will feel and behave. Match these with the project you’re planning to get the right fit and drape.
If your fabric has more or less stretch than what is called for, try going up or down a size (or two) to adjust the fit. Pay attention to finished garment measurements, so you know how much ease is built into the pattern. Use this information to pick a fabric with the best weight and drape for the silhouette you'd like.
Look for draped photos. Photos showing the fabric draped or with visible folds can give you clues about its weight and structure. Larger, thicker folds usually indicate a heavier, stable fabric, while smaller, fluid ripples mean the fabric is lighter and more drapey.
Preparing Sweater Knit Fabric for Sewing
Once you have your fabric and you’re ready to start cutting, you might think that all you need to do is sew your sweater knit like any other knit fabric, right? But there are three pitfalls I want to help you avoid: Shrinking, fraying, and stretching.
The first issue is shrinkage. Always pre-wash sweater knits as you plan to care for the finished garment. Hand wash and lay flat to dry to prevent shrinkage, especially with wool fabrics.
Now, if your sweater knit is made with wool or another animal fiber, that’s when you have to be extra careful.
Recently, I made a really silly mistake and totally ruined a piece of wool sweater knit by throwing it in the dryer. You can see what happened in this video where I recreated one of my favorite store-bought sweaters.
It came out dense, and stiff and way, way smaller. It looks like felt now, and in fact that’s what this process is called: felting.
But assuming you want your sweater knit to look more or less the same as when you bought it, I recommend hand washing and laying flat to dry.
To hand wash, gently squeeze soapy water through the fabric until it's saturated.
Don’t scrub it too much. Just allow the knit to soak. Then fill the sink with fresh water and gently squeeze out suds.
Drain the water and repeat until the water is clear and soap free.
Lay the fabric flat to dry. Wool in particular is very prone to stretching out when it’s wet, so don’t hang it.
The next issue is fraying. Due to their looser structure, sweater knits can fray easily. Use a wider seam allowance to secure seams and mark notches with chalk or tailor’s tacks instead of cutting into the seam allowance.
The last issue I want to help with is your sweater knits stretching out. It’s important to stabilize shoulder seams, waist seams, or other high-stretch areas with clear elastic or stretch mesh to prevent them from stretching out over time.
The mesh stretches along with your knit fabric, which is better than using a crisp interfacing.
Mesh is also light enough to prevent added bulk, and it’s nearly invisible if your sweater knit is really lacey.
One of my favorite ways to use stretch mesh is when hemming. All I do is sew a strip to the bottom of the hem, and then turn and stitch.
Here’s another tip: If you can’t find stretch mesh, you might be able to find strips of stretch lace. They’re also often in the lingerie section of fabric stores, and they are helpful when you hem sweater knits.
Sewing Tips to Avoid Fraying and Stretching
Here are my favorite tips to help you handle sweater knits with ease.
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Use a ballpoint njeedle: The rounded point prevents puncturing the yarns and helps avoid snagging. -
Pick the right stitch. For stable knits, a serger or zigzag stitch work well. If your knit is open, lacey, or has a ton of stretch, use a narrow stretch stitch. Set the length to 2.00mm and the width to 1.5mm. This narrow zigzag will allow your seams to stretch, preventing them from popping when the sweater is worn. Then you can finish your edges with a serger or another zigzag stitch. Test stitch settings on a swatch first. -
Use a walking foot for stability. A walking foot can prevent stretching during sewing, especially with textured knits. -
Don’t press too much. Just use the iron’s tip on seams to avoid flattening the fabric’s texture.
My Favorite Patterns for Sweater Knits
By now you might be wondering what kinds of projects you can sew in sweater knit, and the answer is: a lot.
So I’m going to share a few of my personal favorites with you, including my favorite cardigan pattern which is completely free right now!
The Astoria sweater is a simple crew neck sweater that’s perfect for layering. This top works well in so many kinds of knits, but it looks especially lovely in a lacey knit.
The Oslo cardigan works well in both dense and lacey sweater knits for a cozy, relaxed look.
The Flor cardigan has a wrap style and different length options—this cardigan looks elegant in a drapey knit.
The Devon dress is a cozy turtleneck dress with a slight cocoon shape, ideal for medium-weight knits.
The Jill coatigan is a thick, coat-like cardigan, especially chic in boiled wool or a dense sweater knit.
The Lisa cardigan is a free pattern available through my newsletter, designed to be soft, cozy, and perfect for fall.
If you don’t have the time, patience, or skills to knit your own sweater, just do a little fabric shopping and you can sew one up in an afternoon!
Do you have any tips for sewing with sweater knits? Have you ever accidentally shrunk fabric like I did? Comment and let me know!
