How to Sew with Rayon: Expert Tips and Inspiring Projects

If you’re a '90s kid like me and have a soft spot for printed dresses, you’re going to love sewing with rayon.

In my latest video, I take you along on a fabric shopping trip where I explore different types of rayon fabrics. Keep reading to discover the variety of rayons available, get helpful sewing tips, and find pattern ideas that look amazing in rayon.

And don’t forget to watch the video to see all the fun finds from my fabric store adventure!

I went shopping at Mill End here in Portland, which is a fabric store with a BIG selection of rayon.

Before I show you what I got, I want to talk a bit about rayon.

Rayon is a semi-synthetic fabric that is best known as a more affordable substitute for silk.

Semi-synthetic fabrics have characteristics of both natural and synthetic fabrics. Rayon is made from cellulose from wood, but it’s processed with chemicals during the manufacturing process.

Since it does contain natural fibers, it’s breathable, moisture-absorbing, it has a soft, silky drape, and it does tend to shrink. Due to the chemicals in the manufacturing process, it’s a little less prone to wrinkles.

One of the great things about rayon is that you can find it in so many different weights and textures. It’s a super versatile fabric you can use in so many different ways.

Here are some of the common kinds of rayon which I found on my fabric shopping trip.

Rayon Challis

One of the most appealing benefits of rayon is that it holds dye really well, which is why you’ll find it in so many fun prints and colors.

Rayon challis is a very common form of rayon. It’s soft, drapey, and comfortable. Even though it’s lightweight, it doesnt wrinkle as much as linen or cotton.

Viscose Rayon

In the sewing world, you’ll often see the terms viscose and rayon used interchangeably. Viscose rayon is a type of rayon, so while it’s made from similar materials, it’s manufactured a little bit differently.

Viscose has a slightly different texture that’s a little more silky, but it’s usually just as affordable as rayon challis. This makes it an ideal substitute for silk.

The viscose I found at the fabric store has a satin finish on one side, which makes it look even silkier.

Cupro

Cupro is short for cuprammonium rayon. It’s made from a byproduct of the cotton plant. So, it’s known as being more eco-friendly, but, like all rayon, it’s not without impacts.

Cupro has a luxurious, silk-like texture. Like silk, it holds dye really well.

Lyocell

Lyocell is also known by the brand name Tencel. This rayon is also considered more sustainable compared to other rayons. It’s produced in a closed-loop system, and you can read more about it in this article, All About Lyocell and Tencel.

This rayon is known for it’s swooshy drape, and it has more body than rayon challis. It comes in a few different weights, and the heavier weights are great for pants and jumpsuits.

Modal

Modal is made from beech trees, which take less water to grow.

You’ll most commonly find it in knit rather than woven, and it makes beautiful, luxurious T-shirts. You can also use it for underwear or activewear, and it feels so comfortable against the skin.

Rayon knits

You can find all kinds of rayon knits, blended with different fibers like cotton and linen. So if you’re looking for something really fluid and flowy, a rayon knit is great.

And those aren’t all the different kinds of rayon you’ll find. You can find suiting that looks like wool or cotton, and rayon gauze. It’s a really versatile fiber.

Before You Sew

Pre-wash Your Fabric

Since rayon has a tendency to shrink, be sure to pre-wash rayon before you sew. You want to machine wash it alone using cold water and a gentle cycle.

According to Sandra Betzina—one of my favorite fabric experts—washing alone minimizes grain distortion.

Then, machine dry, but take it out when damp and press until dry.

Cutting Tips

Rayon can be slippery. When you’re cutting, don’t let it hang off the ends or your table, or it will pull and distort. Instead, prop the extra yardage on a chair or fold and leave on the edge of the table.

You can use spray stabilizer if needed. After you wash your fabric, spray it all over your fabric, get it soaked, and then let it dry. It will get a paper quality which makes it easy to handle, but when you wash your garment, it will wash away. Test on a swatch to make sure it doesn’t stain.

I prefer a rotary cutter to shears for cutting rayon. When you use shears, you have to lift the fabric a bit, and that can cause it to shift around. When you secure it with pattern weights and use a rotary cutter, it will always stay flat.

Tips for Sewing Rayon

Use cotton thread rather than polyester if your seams will be under stress. Polyester thread is so strong that it can actually shred the fabric.

To avoid snagging, use a brand new needle, usually size 70/10.

For long vertical seams, use a narrow zigzag rather than a straght stitch. This allows your fabric to stretch slightly as you move and prevents it from rippling or tearing.

Serge or zigzag your seam allowances and press them open. You can even switch to a 3-thread stitch on your serger, because it’s less bulky.

Before you hem your rayon project, be sure to let it hang overnight. It has a tendency to stretch, so if you let it hang and rest, you can straighten any hems before you stitch them.

One more tip: I once made a rayon dress with a zipper in back that really buckled.

It buckled because the rayon fabric was lighter than the zipper tape. The zipper was stiff and it distorted the rayon fabric.

To prevent this, add strips of interfacing to your seam allowance to stabilize where the zipper will go. This works for any light, flowy fabric like rayon or silk when you need a zipper.

Ok, now the really fun part. I’m going to share some examples of things I’ve sewn in rayon, and give you ideas for more projects.

Project Ideas: What to Sew With Rayon

You all know that I’m on a journey to have an 80% handmade wardrobe, and so I really want to choose fabrics that are affordable and wearable every day.

So here are a few projects I’ve made in rayon, and why I chose rayon for them.

Chantelle Dress