Sew With Knits: Our 10 Must-Have Tools

Are you intimidated by sewing with knit fabrics? Many sewists avoid knits because they can be tricky to work with. In this episode of Seamwork Radio, hosts Sarai and Haley share their favorite tools and notions for working with knit fabrics, along with practical advice to help you achieve professional results.

Common Challenges with Knit Fabrics

Sewing with knits can be challenging for beginners. Both hosts shared their early knit sewing bloopers:

• Haley's first knit project was a V-neck t-shirt (one of the most challenging necklines). After repeatedly ripping out the neckband, the center front was so stretched out that "it could fit a traffic cone."


• Sarai once accidentally sewed a dress designed for knit fabric using woven fabric, resulting in a garment that fit, but not as intended.

These mishaps taught them valuable lessons about using the right tools and techniques for knit fabrics.

10 Essential Tools for Sewing with Knits

1. Ballpoint or Stretch Needles

Specifically designed for knit fabrics, these needles have a slightly rounded tip that prevents snagging or damaging the fibers. Sometimes labeled as jersey needles, they glide between the fibers rather than piercing through them, preventing runs in your fabric.

2. Serger Sewing Machine

While not mandatory, a serger makes sewing with knits much faster and provides professional-looking, stretchable edges. Sergers typically use four cones of thread - two in the loopers to enclose the fabric edge and two in the needles to secure the loops in place.

3. Walking Foot

For those using a regular sewing machine, a walking foot ensures even feeding of fabric layers, preventing stretching or puckering. It's also useful for sewing bias cuts, fabrics with stretch fibers, and quilting.

4. Twin Needle

A twin needle allows you to sew with two spools of thread, creating parallel lines of stitching that stretch with your fabric. They're excellent for hems on knits and securing necklines.

5. Fabric Clips

Clips are often better than pins when sewing knits as they don't leave holes or distort the fabric. They're especially useful when using a serger to avoid accidentally catching pins with the knife.

6. Woolly Nylon Thread

This special thread offers extra stretch and softness, making it perfect for serger loopers or the bobbin of a regular sewing machine. It creates more stretchy, secure seams and feels soft against the skin - ideal for sensitive skin. Note: Avoid washing garments with woolly nylon thread with items that have Velcro, as it can catch and damage the thread.

7. Clear Elastic

Clear elastic can be sewn into areas that need stabilization to prevent stretching out. Quarter-inch clear elastic is perfect for stabilizing shoulder seams on knit garments, which often carry a lot of weight.

8. Knit Interfacing

Lightweight with a bit of stretch, knit interfacing is perfect for stabilizing knit fabrics. Use it wherever your pattern calls for interfacing or cut strips to stabilize shoulder seams and other areas prone to stretching out. It's versatile enough to use in many woven projects as well.

9. Rotary Cutter and Cutting Mat

Knits can easily get distorted when using pins or fabric shears. A rotary cutter makes it much easier to keep everything in place and achieve precise cuts.

10. Wonder Tape

This narrow adhesive tape (which washes away) is perfect for sewing knit hems because it holds the hem in place and prevents stretching. It's also great for neck bands, holding buttons and zippers in place, and hemming woven fabrics.

Choosing Between Stabilizers

When deciding between clear elastic and knit interfacing for stabilizing seams:

• 
  Knit interfacing is easier to use (simply fuse it to the seam allowance) and is ideal for shoulder seams.


• 
  Clear elastic is better for areas where you need substantial stretch but don't want stretching out over time, like the waistline of a knit dress.

Key Takeaway: Balance Stability and Stretch

The most important consideration when sewing with knits is determining when you want stability and when you want stretch:

• When cutting fabric or securing hems, you want stability.


• For seams that need to move with the body, you want stretch.

Ask yourself at each step of your project whether you need more stability or more stretch, and choose your tools and techniques accordingly.

Links Mentioned in This Episode

• Ready, Set, Serge - Seamwork class on using a serger


• Knit Hemming Workshop - Upcoming April workshop for Seamwork members


• Seamwork.com - Join the Seamwork community


• 
  Seamwork Video on YouTube - Additional sewing tips and tutorials


• Instagram: @Seamwork - Follow for inspiration and updates