Sew our favorite quick and easy top for FREE this spring!

Get your Free Pattern

Tips for Sewing With Knits: Make Your Dream T-shirt!

Episode 211: Whitney from TomKat Stitchery shares her expert tips for sewing with knit fabrics without any stress, so you can make comfy, stretchy clothes.

Posted in: Seamwork Radio Podcast, Fabric Guides • September 30, 2024 • Episode 211

“I think probably the biggest tip, though, when it comes to sewing with knits is, like I said, just to try. Nothing catastrophic is going to happen if you make a T-shirt that turns out horribly wrong.”

If you've ever felt intimidated by sewing with knits, you're not alone!

The stretchy nature of knit fabric can make them appear tricky to wrangle through your machine. But don’t worry—Whitney from TomKat Stitchery is here to help.

Whitney's goal with TomKat Stitchery is to share the creative process of sewing and curating a better wardrobe with people from all over the world.

She has a really popular YouTube channel and tons of classes and resources to help you learn new sewing techniques and make plans to sew your entire wardrobe.

Whitney sat down with Sarai for the latest episode of the Seamwork Radio Podcast and shared her top 10 tips to help you conquer knits with confidence.

From choosing the right needles to sewing professional-looking hems, her expert insights will have you stitching up your dream T-shirt in no time.

Whitney's Top 10 Tips for Sewing with Knits


  1. Use stretch threads: You can sew knits with regular thread, but stretch threads, such as Gutermann's Maraflex, provide additional stretch and recovery for knit fabrics, making them easier to sew on a regular sewing machine without the need for a serger.


  2. Invest in a walking foot: A walking foot helps feed knit fabric evenly through your machine, preventing wavy seams and stretching, which can be a common problem with knits.


  3. Choose the right needles: Use a stretch or ballpoint needle. Both are designed to glide through knit fabrics without causing snags or skipped stitches. Schmetz stretch needles are Whitney's favorite.


  4. Experiment with zigzag and stretch stitches: Even if you don’t have a serger, your sewing machine’s zigzag or lightning bolt stitch will work well for sewing knits. Adjust the stitch width and length (Try a 2.5 length and 1 width) to get the right amount of stretch.


  5. Try a twin needle for professional hems: A double needle creates a professional finish for hems on knit garments. Just ensure your machine can accommodate it by testing the width first.


  6. Use stay tape in shoulder seams: Adding fusible stay tape to shoulder seams prevents stretching and keeps T-shirts looking new, especially with heavy knits like rayon.


  7. Find a tried-and-true (TNT) pattern: Invest time in finding a basic T-shirt pattern that fits you well. Once you have it, you can hack it into different styles, necklines, or even dresses.


  8. Get the right fit on a basic tee with 100% cotton jersey: When you are learning about different knit fabrics, start with a stable cotton (like 100% cotton jersey) and a pattern that isn’t too boxy or too fitted. From there, you can experiment with different fabrics and see how they affect the fit.


  9. Learn the qualities of different knit fabrics: The best way to learn about different fabrics is to experiment with them. The same T-shirt pattern will look totally different in a 100% cotton jersey than in a viscose jersey. Cotton spandex is great for structure and fit, while rayon and viscose add more drape. Cotton modal blends offer the best of both worlds.


  10. Care for your knits to make them last: Avoid tossing knits in the dryer. Air-drying helps reduce pilling and color fading, ensuring your handmades last longer.


Sarai and Whitney go into even deeper detail about all of these tips and more in the podcast. Be sure to listen with the link above or read the full transcript below.

Join the Snippets Newsletter

And Get the Hansie Woven T-Shirt Pattern for Free!

(Plus a new free pattern every season.)

Get these free patterns instantly when you join over 300,000 readers who get clever sewing ideas in their inbox each week.

Want to comment on this article?

Sign in or become a Seamwork member to comment on this article.

Sign in            Learn More